As we prepare to wrap up the round of A/W 16 fashion weeks, and the last few shows happening in Paris right now, one thing is certain: Come tomorrow, fashion will never be the same again.
The breaking neck speed at which fashion is growing online and more notably, on social media channels such as Instagram, has meant that the business of fashion is struggling to find its feet on time.
Fashion houses are currently unable to find a common solution to justify showcasing pieces that clients will have to wait 6 months to purchase, by which time, the electrifying buzz of the shows have all but died.
In a world where clients want what’s new now, not in 6 months when ZARA has already copied the runway designs and social media over exposure has already made the pieces undesirable. Some designers are still arguing that luxury is worth waiting for – but is it really worth waiting for an item that will cost more, be delivered at a time totally out of synch with the weather outside and already have copies everywhere by the time you own the original? Not to mention that discount codes and sales for afore mentioned items will often start before the weather outside allows you to have worn it.. Is it luxury? I personally feel that the word luxury is too widely used nowadays and therefore too fluid. I feel that it is a lot more luxurious to possess an inherent style and to be fashion savvy, then to own anything too ostentatious or logo heavy.
“A study has addressed issues with the timing of retail deliveries, which are out of sync with seasonal weather patterns. As it stands, Pre-Fall clothes are delivered from April through July, while Autumn/Winter clothes are delivered from July through October. Heavier items like outerwear and knits are often deeply discounted in January when cold weather finally hits the United States. Today, retailers rely on markdowns to drive foot traffic and sales, resulting in a vicious cycle.” – BOF.
I am a vigorous opposer of fast, cheap fashion, however I have no doubt that the only way for luxury and contemporary designers to survive, is to align themselves to the speed at which the new world is running at. Seasonless everyday luxury will need to become more than just a fashion terminology, before it can become profitable.
And so the shows…
While this season, some heavy weight fashion critics have ousted the fact that designers have little left in them in the form of creativity or originality, to actually be called a designer. Because, they claim, fashion appropriation is so rife that one no longer can discern who designed what or who was “inspired by” who. Think Aquazurra’s lace ups…Read more here.
So one fashion house causing its own fashion revolution alongside Gucci’s, is Vetements. The label’s show in Paris last week was the talk of town, not because of its desirable or remotely wearable clothes, but the sheer dare of creating something new, something of its own – even if that something is targeted at such a thin layer of society, namely rich, young, rock’n roll kids. I won’t wear it, but I applaud.
You can view the show here.
On the more pared back side of the spectrum, Celine has solidified the “Palazzo pants” as the only trousers one should be seen in as of today. Not even the cropped flare jeans exhaustedly displayed by street style starlets this season, stands a chance against the comfortable appeal of the wide legged trousers – because when cut right, nothing feels or looks more elegant right now.
As the story (or history?) of fashion develops, I am eagerly awaiting the new season, as in weather, and all the stylishly fresh possibilities it brings.
Here are some great picks from the luxe-layers.com clearance sale to take you (for less) into the next season and beyond..